Can You Still Collect All 12 Dirty Dozen Watches Today?

For many military watch enthusiasts, collecting all twelve Dirty Dozen watches is the ultimate challenge. More than eighty years after they were issued to British military personnel during World War II, these watches remain highly desirable among collectors worldwide.

But is it still possible to build a complete set today?

The short answer is yes — but it requires patience, knowledge, and a healthy budget.

What Is A Complete Dirty Dozen Collection?

A complete Dirty Dozen collection consists of one original WWW military watch from each of the twelve manufacturers selected by the British Ministry of Defence:

• Buren
• Cyma
• Eterna
• Grana
• IWC
• Jaeger-LeCoultre
• Lemania
• Longines
• Omega
• Record
• Timor
• Vertex

Many collectors spend years searching for all twelve examples.

Which Watches Are The Easiest To Find?

Some Dirty Dozen watches were produced in relatively large numbers and appear regularly on the market.

The most commonly encountered brands include:

• Omega
• Record
• Cyma
• Timor
• Vertex

These watches can often be found through specialist dealers, military watch fairs, and online auctions.

Condition, originality, and service history usually have a greater impact on value than the brand itself.

Which Watches Are The Hardest To Find?

At the opposite end of the scale are the rarest members of the Dirty Dozen family.

The most difficult watches to source are typically:

• Grana
• Eterna
• IWC

Among these, Grana is considered the holy grail.

Only around 1,000 to 1,500 Grana WWW watches are believed to have been produced, making surviving examples exceptionally scarce.

Finding a correct, original Grana in good condition can take years.

How Much Does A Full Set Cost?

The cost of building a complete collection varies significantly depending on condition and originality.

A collector assembling a full set today should expect to spend several tens of thousands of pounds.

The rarest watches, particularly Grana, often represent a substantial percentage of the total investment.

Many collectors choose to buy the more common watches first and leave the rarest examples until later.

What Should You Check Before Buying?

Because Dirty Dozen watches are valuable and highly collectible, careful inspection is essential.

Key points to examine include:

Military Markings

Original WWW case-back markings should be clear and consistent with known examples.

Dial Condition

Over-restored or heavily refinished dials can significantly reduce collector value.

Hands

Replacement hands are common and should be checked against period-correct specifications.

Movement

The movement should match the manufacturer and military reference.

Case

Excessive polishing may remove important military markings and reduce collectability.

Is Building A Full Set Still Worth It?

For many collectors, the answer is undoubtedly yes.

The Dirty Dozen represents one of the most important military watch programmes ever created. A complete set tells the story of British wartime procurement, Swiss watchmaking, and decades of collecting passion.

While assembling all twelve watches is becoming increasingly difficult, the challenge itself is part of the appeal.

Production Numbers

The estimated production figures are:

• Omega – approximately 25,000
• Record – approximately 25,000
• Cyma – approximately 20,000
• Vertex – approximately 15,000
• Timor – approximately 13,000
• Buren – approximately 11,000
• Lemania – approximately 10,000
• Jaeger-LeCoultre – approximately 10,000
• Longines – approximately 8,000
• IWC – approximately 6,000
• Eterna – approximately 5,000
• Grana – approximately 1,000–1,500

The total production is believed to have been around 145,000 to 150,000 watches.

Final Thoughts

Completing a Dirty Dozen collection remains one of the greatest achievements in military watch collecting. Although some examples have become increasingly rare, dedicated collectors can still build a full set with enough patience and research.

Whether you own one watch or all twelve, the Dirty Dozen continues to be one of the most fascinating chapters in military horological history.